AC will absorb most medications, so you should take it out before you start treatment. Once your fish are healthy again, you can safely put the carbon back into your aquarium filter. Different brands use different temperatures to charge the carbon, which can make it last longer or shorter than other brands.
Usually, it will last between 2 to 4 weeks. This can also happen when you have corals or microalgae in your aquarium, because they constantly release biochemicals into the water. AC will help you get rid of those biochemicals by absorbing them. Even though AC is one of the most absorbent filter media, the more it absorbs the quicker those tiny pores get blocked.
You should change your AC every 2 to 4 weeks, depending on the bio load in your aquarium. You should put half a cup of carbon into the bag for every ten gallons of water in your aquarium.
Just to be safe, before putting the AC into your aquarium, you should run it under some running water from a tap. Next, you should remove the old carbon from your filter system so you can put the new bag in.
Your filter should have 3 kinds of media: mechanical, biological, and chemical. And the biofilter will absorb some of the organic compounds that can clog your AC media. Keep your water flow direction in mind: the AC should be the last media the water flows through. Otherwise, it will lose its charge very quickly.
Are you ready to add an activated carbon filtration media to your aquarium? Take a look at these recommended products. MarineLand charges the carbon at 3, degrees to make it more porous. They can also be reused, but they come in a 4-pack so you can quickly change your carbon media while washing the current one.
It might seem odd, but, yes, adding the correct amount of vodka to a marine tank with plenty of live rock will reduce both nitrates and phosphates. Different aquarists have had successes with different rates of vodka dosing, but methods that have worked have involved between 0. The angle here is that these methods introduce carbon to the water column.
Uh oh. Solid carbon reverses the roles a tad, and rather than bringing carbon to the bacteria who usually live in rocks or substrate , this method entices bacteria to grow directly on the carbon source.
Most solid carbon methods employ the use of a reactor, which is a large tube through which the water from the tank passes over the carbon filter medium. This has the effect of tumbling the media and keeping it in suspension, and as the carbon then develops a film on its surface — made up of nitrate and phosphate-guzzling, carbon-hungry bacteria — this tumbling action knocks the excess biofilm off.
The film now comprised of bacteria and fixed waste, is then either removed through the action of a protein skimmer or is even consumed by corals and other invertebrates in the tank. Flow rate is essential when it comes to solid carbon dosing. Solid carbon is still a fast growing part of the marine fishkeeping hobby.
Carbon is essential for plant growth, but it needs to be in the right form for plants to uptake. In the aquarium, carbon is added in one of a couple of ways. The preferable method for many is to add carbon dioxide to the water, through the medium of tiny bubbles until it forms a solution in the water. As humans, we guzzle down the stuff as the main ingredient in fizzy drinks: carbonated water.
In absence of adequate carbonic acid, plants in tanks will try to find their carbon from elsewhere. Calcium carbonate, the chemical responsible for the alkalinity and carbonate hardness in your tank, is sometimes forcefully secured as an alternative source and can result in faint chalky deposits on plants.
This form of carbon is not without its risks. One area where carbon is outstanding is in the removal of chlorine, chloramine and some heavy metals. A carbon dechlorinator goes inline on your water supply. Some need to be permanently installed, which is great for domestic supplies as well as tanks or, if you prefer, you can buy units that simply go inline with hosing.
Due to its adsorptive nature, carbon eventually exhausts itself when its entire surface is coated in waste. Anyone that tells you an exact lifespan for carbon is a barefaced liar, as each and every tank will have a different volume of waste inside it.
In some cases, the carbon might be exhausted within three or four weeks. Most users will have it in their tank for up to six week stints at a time, after which time we generally accept that it can start to leach some of what it has taken out back in to the water. Carbon comes from lots of different sources.
On a universal level, it is formed in the death throes of exploding stars and blasted out into space during their final cough. For aquaria, granular carbon can come from animal bones, peat, coconut shells, wood and bituminous or lignite coal.
The source can have a big effect on just how good a carbon is in action. Effectively, all carbon is just charcoal taken to the next level by cooking it. Surface area is essential, as the more you have, the more your carbon can interact with water and the more chemicals it can remove. These substances include dissolved organic molecules found in tap water, chlorine and chloramine, some heavy metals, and growth-inhibiting pheromones released by your fish.
Carbon does not filter out ammonia, phosphates, sodium chloride, or nitrite or nitrate, although your filter may contain other substances besides carbon that do remove these elements. A carbon filter can dilute or remove any medication or supplements you use to treat your fish, so you should remove the carbon when you need to add medication to the water.
Replacing carbon post-treatment helps remove excess medication. Carbon poses no harm to fish, but it can remove some of the trace elements live plants need to grow, so if you have an abundance of plants, you may want to reduce your carbon usage.
How often you need to change the carbon in your filter depends on the number of fish in your aquarium relative to its size and the quality of the carbon. Following the guidelines provided is your best bet unless your tank contains more than the recommended number of fish for its size, in which case you may need to change the charcoal more frequently.
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